"It takes a ton of water to produce a bottle of wine," says Xavier Vignon. The word is out. The new battleground is no longer oil. The fuel of the future and the present is water. The beverage is not only used for watering young plants (irrigation is permitted for up to 3 years to allow for the maturity of new vines), but it is necessary at every stage of winemaking: for cleaning, rinsing tanks, and washing from all sides."

"Today, we find ourselves with the climate of southern Spain from 25 years ago. Should we simply adapt or completely shift our paradigm?" Xavier Vignon poses the question, igniting the debate, yet action will soon be imperative. For the previous generation, obtaining 10% alcohol at 400 meters altitude was deemed improbable, a struggle for ripe grapes and higher alcohol content. However, today, the scenario is reversed. We strive to curb alcohol levels, endeavoring to remain below the symbolic threshold of 12.5%. However, these efforts prove futile in 99% of cases, with alcohol levels in regions like Châteauneuf-du-Pape often nearing 15%. Ironically, it is the very capability of this terroir to ripen earlier than others, yielding grapes richer in sugar, that has cemented the reputation of the cru and positioned it above the rest."

Xavier Vignon is a champion of breaking taboos and embracing change. His philosophy is grounded in authenticity and truth. "What's preventing us from blending white into red? Or from further diversifying our grape varieties?" The answer is straightforward: nothing but biases and outdated principles that hold tradition as an unalterable recipe. But tradition is a product of its time, and it's only natural for it to evolve and reinvent itself over the years. This perspective offers a promising and motivating vision for the future of winemaking."

"As they say, 'Tradition is successful innovation.' So, since we're at a breaking point, let's innovate! 'Châteauneuf is an early-ripening terroir, cultivating 16 grape varieties. However, few cuvées feature this variety, and often, Grenache is overwhelmingly dominant. However, white grape varieties help refresh and moderate alcohol levels."

There are still radical solutions, such as dealcoholization. Xavier Vignon doesn't believe in it. First, out of pragmatism: "To dealcoholize a tank, you need twice its volume of water." Second, the results have yet to be convincing enough, and the processes to achieve them are costly and complex.

Another interesting point highlighted by the winemaker is potassium. This element is the enemy of acidity. So, when there is too much potassium because acidity decreases (due to heat episodes), the pH drops, and salinity increases. And salty wines, nobody likes that...

Viognier, assertiko, clairette, and mourvèdre, which are potassium pumps, would therefore be more suitable under these conditions. The challenge remains in convincing the INAO, shaking up regulations, and moving the boundaries...

In France, we have a penchant for the new while cherishing the comfort of our age-old habits. But will a significant heatwave be sufficient to prompt change? Xavier Vignon has long been contemplating this issue; he certainly won't be the last to do so.